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United States

How much does it cost to run a tumble dryer?

Work out what any appliance costs to run per use, per month and per year on your own electricity rate — including what it draws on standby. Rates for all 50 states.

Using the US average of 18.44¢/kWh — the U.S. Energy Information Administration, May 2026.

Vented dryers use roughly 4–5 kWh a cycle; heat pump models use closer to 1.5–2 kWh, which is where the running-cost gap shows up.

Rates vary widely across US — picking yours makes the answer far closer.
Wattage is on the rating plate or in the manual. Washing machines and dishwashers usually quote kWh per cycle instead.
Usage
W
min
kWh
Your tariff
¢/kWh
On your bill or in your online account. If you do not know it, the average for your area is filled in already.
W
Leave at 0 if you unplug it. Most things with a clock, light or remote draw 0.5–3 W.
Cost per use $0.83
Cost per year $174
Cost per month $14.52
Energy per use 4.5 kWh
Energy per year 945 kWh
Of which standby $1.62

What drives the cost

Nearly all of a tumble dryer's electricity goes into evaporating water, which is why the biggest saving happens before the dryer is switched on. A faster spin in the washing machine removes more water mechanically, and mechanical removal is enormously cheaper than thermal removal — moving from a 1,000 rpm to a 1,400 rpm spin typically cuts drying time, and cost, by something like a fifth.

The other variable is the type of machine. Vented and condenser dryers heat air, use it once and throw the heat away. Heat pump dryers recycle it, which is why they draw roughly a third of the energy for the same load, and why they take noticeably longer to do it. Across a few hundred loads a year that gap is usually wider than the price difference between the two machines.

How this is worked out

Electricity is billed per kilowatt hour. An appliance's kilowatt hours are its power in kilowatts multiplied by the hours it runs — so a 2,000 W appliance running for 30 minutes uses 1 kWh. Multiply that by your rate and you have the cost. The fixed monthly customer charge your utility adds is not included, because you pay it whether or not you switch anything on.

What this assumes

  • The appliance draws its rated power for the whole time it is on. Anything thermostatically controlled — ovens, heaters, refrigerators, air conditioners — cycles on and off, so the real figure is lower.
  • Your rate is flat all day. On a time-of-use plan the same appliance costs materially different amounts depending on when you run it, and peak rates can be several times the off-peak rate.
  • State averages come from the EIA and blend every utility in that state. Your own utility may be meaningfully above or below it, so use your bill where you can.
  • A year is 52 weeks of identical use, which overstates seasonal appliances and understates ones you use in bursts.
  • The rate filled in for you is an average that spreads fixed charges across a year's usage, so it sits above what one extra unit really costs. Entering the unit rate from your own bill gives a closer answer.

Questions

Is it worth drying clothes on a rack instead?

It costs nothing directly, but indoors in winter the comparison is less clear than it looks. Water evaporating from clothes has to be heated by something, and that something is your heating. Drying indoors also raises humidity, which is the main ingredient in condensation and mould.

Do two small loads cost more than one full one?

Usually, yes. A large share of each cycle goes into heating the drum and the airflow rather than the clothes, and that overhead is paid once per cycle. A full but not tightly packed drum is the efficient point.

Does this include the monthly service charge?

No, deliberately. The fixed customer charge is billed for being connected at all, so it does not change when you run an appliance more or less. Including it would make every appliance look more expensive than it is.

Why is the default rate different from what I pay?

The figure filled in is the EIA state average across all utilities in your state. Rates inside a single state can vary widely between a municipal utility and an investor-owned one, so your bill is always the better number.

Where do I find the wattage?

On the nameplate — usually a label on the back, base or inside the door — or in the manual. It is written as W or kW. If it only lists amps, multiply amps by 120 for a standard outlet, or 240 for a large appliance circuit.

Sources

Rates from U.S. EIA for May 2026. Last reviewed September 3, 2026.